Eighty-six-year-old Bernard Lifschultz is in the fish business here in East Harlem. In his small stall at
La Marqueta on 115th Street and Park Avenue, he cuts the ends off piles of dried cod (bacalao) and organizes the fish into neat stacks on his front counter.
Although Lifschultz has been selling this kind of fish for decades to Spanish Harlem locals, he admits it’s not his favorite dish. Instead, he prefers fresh fish – particularly gefilte fish.
“We used to make it for the festive occasions, like Passover,” he says. “But now my wife usually buys it ready-made at this stage of the game.”
At this ‘stage of the game’, Lifschultz finds himself among the last in a generation of European Jews who work at La Marqueta in Spanish Harlem. There were well over 100,000 Jews in this area when the market opened in 1936, and a host of Jewish vendors set up shop.
"It was very busy," Lifschultz says, recalling the hundreds of food and clothing vendors present in the market’s heyday. “Customers had to fight their way in!”
He came to the neighborhood after serving overseas in World War II. Since then – for 55 years – Lifschultz has made a tiny corner under the Metro-North Viaduct his own. Six days a week, from 9am to 4pm, you can find him here at “Benny’s Place”, selling fish and chatting with the regulars in both English and Spanish.
“I like the atmosphere here and I like the people,” he says. “So even though I don’t have to come to work every day, I come because I enjoy being here. I like to be productive.”
Today, due to a combination of economic downturns and political upheavals, of the 500 business that were once at La Marqueta, only eight are left. While
plans are in the works to expand the market, Lifschultz isn’t entirely optimistic.
"A lot of people have forgotten we're here," he says as a Metro-North train rumbles by on the tracks above. “Those officials have been talking about making it better here for years. I’m not holding my breath.”
But as I detail to Lifschultz some of the changes I’ve seen sweeping through the area he seems excited and says that he’s not planning to leave anytime soon. He chuckles when I tell him about my quest for the missing bagel in East Harlem and I ask him if he thinks a bagel stand could be in La Marqueta’s future.
“I do like a good bagel,” he says wistfully. “I suppose anything’s possible.”